Why You Should Use Oil In Your Hair

Hesitant about using oil on your hair? Check out these pro tips. Rarely does one beloved beauty secret cross the breadth of so many centuries, countries, cultures and ethnicities as the use of oil on hair.

With effects that run the gamut from conditioning and adding shine to treating dandruff and stimulating strand growth, oils are truly the workhorse of hair care products.

While the nutrient-rich substance fell out of favor in recent times in part due to a general lack of knowledge of how to use it without weighing down hair, oils are now enjoying a popular resurgence as the rise of the green beauty category brings the ancient treatment back to the spotlight.

"Oils are not only incredibly beneficial to all hair types, but they have a ritualistic quality to them that many find spiritually soothing," says Horst Rechelbacher, founder of both Aveda and Intelligent Nutrients, a certified organic beauty line that is entirely based on plant ingredients.

Two oils of the moment -- argan and monoi -- are the current 'it' girls of the industry, attracting attention and fame, and dedicated legions of fans. Argan oil is the star ingredient of the ubiquitous Moroccanoil brand, and monoi takes center stage in a new line launching by Carol's Daughter.

"The romance of monoi is what hooked me first, its tradition and the process by which it is made. The second thing was its scent," says Carol's Daughter founder Lisa Price, of the oil that is created by soaking Tahitian gardenias in coconut oil. "The goal became, 'How do we prepare this so that we can marry the ancient tradition with modern-day efficacy?'"

But before you dive into the healthy hair benefits of oil, it's vital that you know how to apply it in the right way to best benefit your hair. Our tips and tricks below cover all textures and types -- and even the most baby-fine heads of hair.

Know the three types of cosmetic oils and their weight. Fatty oils like castor and shea butter have large molecular weight and sit on the surface of hair, while semi-fatty oils like sweet almond, avocado and sunflower are absorbed more readily, and work for most hair types. Dry oils like grape seed, coconut and evening primrose are the lightest, and seemingly disappear into the hair without any residue on even fine textures, says natural beauty expert Julie Gabriel, who will publish Oleotherapy: Reveal the Powerful Rejuvenation Benefits of 100 Oils for your Health, Beauty and Wellbeing in November 2011.

Always massage oil into the scalp. The most common mistake people make is that they apply oil to the ends of hair only. "Oils help regulate sebum production in the scalp much in the same way that face oils are helpful to normalize sebum production in the skin," says Gabriel. Fine hair can apply oil only to the scalp, while medium to thick types can also apply the oil to the mid-shaft and down. Coarse types can massage the oil from the scalp all the way to the ends.

The goof-proof choice for any hair type is jojoba oil. A plant that is indigenous to the southwest, jojoba is the lightest of all cosmetic oils, and absorbs weightlessly. If you have super-fine hair, you can even look for clarified jojoba, which takes it even a step lighter. "Jojoba is a liquid wax, and you can clarify it and take some of the wax out of it to make it even lighter than it already is," says Rechelbacher.

Argan oil is best for medium to thick hair. While everyone is reaching for argan these days, Rechelbacher says that the exotically fragrant oil is more suited to thicker heads of hair. "Argan is sticky, and can be hard to get out of fine hair. It's like olive oil -- you'll need to shampoo two or three times to fully rinse it out, or else you'll get build-up." Yet for richer locks, argan can strike the perfect balance of shine, scent and manageability.

To get the benefits without any weight, apply oil to dry hair. If you don't want to keep oil in your hair, try this treatment recommended by Rechelbacher. On completely dry hair, first work oil into the ends, and then slowly massage into the scalp, deeply inhaling the aromatic experience for relaxation. Gently brush hair from scalp to ends for five minutes, and allow the oil to sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Then hop in the shower and wash it out. "In most cases, you won't even have to follow up with a conditioner unless you're very coarse. Your hair will feel like silk," says Rechelbacher.

Castor oil is a natural growth treatment. Castor oil is believed to stimulate and strengthen hair growth, but Gabriel says that it's too heavy to use on hair. Instead, you can apply the vegetable oil with a Q-tip to sparse eyebrows and lashes at bedtime to encourage thicker, healthier and faster growth. Think of it as nature's Latisse.

Warm oil is a fix-it for scalp problems. Since putting oil on the scalp encourages the skin to rebalance itself, adding warmth will also allow nutrients to penetrate more deeply. Gabriel says that massaging your choice of oil into the scalp is helpful for dry dandruff, non-hormonal hair loss and itchy scalps. Simply nuke a small amount of oil in the microwave, and then enjoy a soothing fingertip massage in small circles around the scalp.

How often you should use oil depends on how often you wash. Fine and oily hair types that wash daily, or close to that, can consider using an deep oil treatment weekly. Textured and coarse hair types that wash weekly or bi-weekly will likely enjoy the best results with an oil treatment applied once a month. The risk of applying oil too often is that it will build up in the scalp and weigh hair down, unless it has been shampooed sufficiently between applications.

Beware of cheapened oils. Manufacturers are notorious for flooding products with silicones and petrochemicals, and including only minute amounts of oil, says Gabriel. Be sure to read ingredient labels to confirm that you're getting the real deal -- which should be a listing of various oils. Rechelbacher and other vetted natural experts often use essential oils in their mixes, as it's a more hygienic choice that diminishes the chance of bacteria growth. The addition of seeds and antioxidants is an indication of top-notch blending that will allow the oils to perform even better.

If pregnant, don't use nut oils. Oils derived from nuts like peanuts and pine nuts can be potentially hazardous to pregnant women. "Oils from nuts go rancid the quickest, and you don't want to apply rancid oil if you're pregnant. If in doubt, smell it. If it doesn't smell right or is off, don't use it," says Rechelbacher.

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The 10 Biggest Blow-Drying Mistakes

Are you blow-drying your strands with the proper technique? Most of us go about blow-drying our hair with the same excitement we reserve for teeth cleanings and tax filings.

But aching wrists and frizz frustration don't have to be your drying destiny. Chances are, you're likely just making one or more of the most common blow-drying mistakes.

Are you committing one of these most common mistakes?

1. Not Sectioning Hair First. Flipping your head over and blow-drying until you get dizzy, feel light-headed -- or both -- isn't going to help your cause. Keep a claw clip or duckbill clips near your blow dryer, so that you can easily section hair into the bare minimum of three horizontal sections as you dry.

2. Standing Up As You Blow-Dry. "One of the best pieces of blow-drying advice I can give is to have a seat. You will not believe the difference this makes," says Scrivo. When you're comfortably seated, you can fully harness that upper-body strength without getting tired. Plus, it always helps to steal those precious rejuvenative moments for yourself, wherever you can during the day.

3. Holding The Brush In The Wrong Hand. Many women lift the hairdryer with their dominant hand, while working the brush with the weaker one. You'll get better results by instead holding the brush with your stronger hand, as you'll need the improved dexterity to get the job done in less time. "Even many professional hairdressers learn this incorrectly,". Well, now you can style with even more finesse than them.

4. Overtwisting The Brush. When you brush that first stroke into a section of hair, you don't want to go it more than a quarter turn, which is just enough to give it some smoothing tension without risking snarl. After you pull the brush away from the scalp to the midpoint of strand length, then you can safely start twisting the brush to create shape and curl while under the pointed jet stream of your blow dryer. This is where the magic happens!

5. Pulling The Hair Downward At The Crown. The natural inclination is to pull your brush downward, but that will only give you flat results. That just won't do if you want a roaring mane of silky smoothness. Instead, pull your hair up towards the ceiling, imagining a horseshoe shape coming out of your crown. (Stick with us here.) Hair in the horseshoe should always be blasted in an upwards direction, while hair falling below the horseshoe can be styled downwards for smoothness.

6. Holding The Dryer Too Close. It's totally counterintuitive; holding the mouth of the blow dryer right on top of hair doesn't dry it faster, but only leaves tell-tale damage and pouf in its wake. Always dry with a plastic nozzle in place to regulate and direct heat, and keep it at least an inch away from strands. We had to try it to believe it, but it really does speed things along faster by providing a more even dry -- kinda of similar to a rotating dish in a microwave.

7. Holding The Dryer In The Wrong Position. Your goal: keep that nozzle parallel to each section of hair you hit. Otherwise, the heat will irritate and rough up the cuticle, leaving you with flyaways, damage and smoking strands. And by that, we don't mean sexy.

8. Keeping The Dryer Motionless. Some shake, rattle 'n roll is good for your hips, and apparently, your hair too. Keeping that dryer moving ensures that hair will dry at the same rate all over, and it will actually prevent your shoulder and wrist from hurting from the strain of staying in one spot. "To a stylist, this is second nature, and we do it almost subconsciously," .

9. Going Too Fast. "Women often blow-dry..as if they're in some kind of panic. This is not a race against time. Slow down the process, be more methodical and careful," . In fact, if you race through the process, you'll likely find that you need need to keep going back and re-doing sections anyway, wasting more time in the long run. If your hair dries rapidly (lucky you) before you get a chance to style the section, simply keep a spray bottle of water nearby for a refreshing spritz.

 10. Not Drying The Hair Completely. This is for the frizz afflicted out there; if the pouf starts growing almost immediately after you've finished blow-drying, it means you didn't dry it 100 percent. Sometimes hair looks done, but is cold to the touch -- which is the dead giveaway that water is still hiding out in there. "Your hair should be room temperature after blow-drying,".

 

5 Celebrity Secret Styling Tricks to Transform Your Hair

Transform your hair with these pro styling tricks.

If you've ever tried to recreate anything from a basic ponytail to the sexy bed hair seen on celebs and runway models with less-than-stellar results, there's a reason you can't match the look.

And it's not your hairstyling skills.

Experts tell us there are five essential tools in that are key to pulling off any hairstyle you want to create with ease.

The good news is, you can find all of them at your local beauty supply store.

And remember, attitude is key.

"Confidence is the best tool or product we use. When the girls walk down the runway, they believe they look good, even if they hate the clothes, hair and makeup. If you're trying a new look or product, own it!"

Bungee Elastics

Ponytails look freshest when you finger comb strands into place, but the process of pulling the gathered hair through a regular elastic destroys the piece-y texture and flirtatious tail height of your pony. This is why celebrities and models opt instead for bungee elastics.

Like a mini bungee cord, you simply wrap the elastic around your hair, and secure by hooking the ends together or on the surface of the elastic so as not to disturb the finish or volume of your hair.

"Regular elastics can only be wrapped a certain amount of times, and sometimes it's too tight or too loose. It's like shoes not coming in half sizes," says Ryan. "I like bungee elastics, as they allow you to wrap the elastics around until they are a perfect fit."

Dry Shampoo

How do red carpet updos stay in place so beautifully, when your attempts to replicate result in strands slipping out of place and flattening in minutes? It's actually not hairspray that's the key, but a dry shampoo that stylists just about always use to prep roots before styling hair.

"These work by applying a layer of fine powder to the roots of the hair. It will absorb the hair oil, and when you brush it out a few minutes later, the hair will be fuller and dryer looking. It adds volume to limp, fine hair and gives great texture for updos, as hair that is too clean is slippery and hard to style,"
To apply, work through sections of hair separated by a pick comb, and spray powder in opposite direction of hair growth, at the root. Allow to absorb for a few minutes, and then brush out. Not only will your hair fall into different shapes more easily, but this is a great way to cheat more days out of a blowout.


Point-Tipped Straightening Iron

Straight hair on the red carpet always looks like freshly ironed sheets, while waves and curls capture long-lasting bounce. Yet the reason why your results are fleeting most likely has to do with the use of a too big or bulky-shaped flat iron.

"Don't buy a big iron to save time, because it will be hard to manipulate, and you won't be able to direct the hair. If the edges are beveled, you can create volume and movement in the hair without leaving the creases that sharp edges can,"
"I like an iron that tapers to a point so that you can get to the hard-to-reach parts of hair, like bangs. Curved edges and a heated curved back are great for straightening and adding volume to the hair,"


Backcombing Brush Or Comb

While the '80s may have given the art of hair teasing a bad name, a solid back comb is the crowning foundation for most hair styles you see sported on red carpets and runways.

"When you want to create volume, you need a back comb. A regular brush or comb doesn't have enough bristles or teeth. The more teeth and the closer they are placed together, the better,"
Grasping a section of hair, push a few smooth yet firm strokes down toward the root. Once you have a good base, continue the back-combing through to the ends, though using less pressure. Then spray a light workable hairspray for hold, making sure that the formula isn't too sticky. "Don't be afraid of too much volume -- it's easy to tame and remove,"
Once you've finished teasing, gently smooth down the exterior with a bamboo brush with both nylon and boar bristles for the sleekest results.

And don't get frustrated -- rarely does anyone learn to back-comb the first few times they try. With some practice, you'll be able to add the technique to your styling repertoire.

Salt Spray

Ever wonder why your authentic bed hair never quite looks the same as the tousled, come-hither waves of Victoria's Secret photo shoots and Sports Illustrated swimsuit covers? It's all in the prep spray.

"This is a backstage staple, as it gives a rough lived-in look, but still gives volume. If you blow-dry it in, it gives a dry full texture. When used on curly hair, it gives a chunky, sexy look. I like to use a little cream on the ends to give definition,"
For texturized hair that sits with volume, spritz all over roots before blow-drying with a round brush. Or to add a piece-y lived-in look, finish your style with a few spritzes all over strands, and distribute with your fingers.

How Not to Damage Your Hair With a Flat Iron

Before you pick up your flat iron, read these pro styling tips.

If you've ever used a flat iron, you've likely suffered from smoke and sizzle that led to split and fried ends.

But contrary to popular belief, you don't need to endure damage in order to achieve the sleek and smooth locks that flat iron addicts crave. Most people have simply never been versed on the proper way to flat iron. Bad techniques live on, and are often passed down from family, friends and poorly trained stylists.

Size your section: There's no one standard size to section your hair for flat iron use, as hair thickness, length and iron size all vary greatly. "The goal is to make sure that each and every strand of hair gets even heat distribution. If you choose a section that is too large, the outer portions will get heated while leaving the inner portions unaffected," says Davis. Experiment to find what amount heats all of your strands equally, and then stick to that size going forward.

Smooth, don't pull: "Those who have long been using irons such as the CHI have a tendency to grip the hair and pull it straight, using friction. This method will give you decent results in the short run, but over time, will damage your hair," says Davis. Instead, move the iron slowly yet steadily through your hair, focusing on smoothing the strands instead of tugging down on them.

Don't pass multiple times: "Passing over the same section continuously -- like more than three times -- damages hair more than using a high temperature setting," says Davis. The perfect degree varies by hair type and condition, but you'll want to experiment until you find a temperature that gives you the desired result in one to two passes. And if you're smoking, you're burning.

Use heat-protective serum: Anytime you flat iron, be sure to prep strands with a heat-protective serum, like those made with jojoba and argan oil. Typically, serums are more effective than sprays because they coat strands in a protective fashion, but be sure to use no more than a quarter-size amount at a time to prevent buildup.

Don't iron wet hair: While it's OK to style hair that is still slightly damp, wet hair magnifies heat to dangerously scorching levels. Too often, people use the flat iron to do most of the straightening work, when in fact, that's the role of a hair dryer. Use your iron as more of a finishing touch to set shine and seal in moisture and sleekness, or else pay the price with badly heat-damaged hair.